If you're really crazy about intonation then this setup won't be for you, if you're playing super clean chords with lots of open strings then it may drive you crazy, but if you're using drive and fuzz and are happy to make the slight shonkiness work for you and your band then it can be a good thing! I do it a really bad way, I just tune to certain chords that I use a lot, then back it off so it sounds more or less in at the 12th fret, then after a while you start automatically adding vibrato or bending the dodgy strings to compensate. Someone better than me can explain in writing, but I'll try and find a link later - just google 'tempered tuning for wraparound bridges'. If major thirds sound out then that is a classic symptom for the this kind of bridge and it can be tempered. What most people do is to temper the entire guitar by tuning the 3rd and 4th strings slightly sharp so that certain positions which are more vulnerable to the ear sound more 'in'. You could always try a wound third, which was what the design was intended for. There's always a degree of compensation with these bridges, luckily the guitar and 'guitar music' can cope with minor discrepancies and with the standard bridge you should be able to get it playing in tune, with only the G string suffering noticeably. If its just the G string thats out then thats normal for this setup, and it can be worked on, it depends on your OCD and what kind of music you are making! Think of it as similar to an acoustic.

You'll probably need to define 'out of tune' to get more detailed help - can you get it playing in tune along the first 5 frets and then it starts to drift out higher up the neck? If so, the overall intonation is out and the adjustment screws will need working on. I'd like to keep the look of the current bridge, so will probably go with one of the compensated bridge options. I know there are aftermarket bridge options that can help. I played it out of tune for a while just to see how it sounds and it seems like something I wouldn't mind putting some money into. I'm just posting to see if someone can share their wisdom with experiences with wraparound bridges. I'm going to try putting 11's on it today to see if that helps with the strings slipping off, and maybe the current strings are just old. I know that there is not much tension on the strings with this sort of bridge. Also, the e strings are slipping off of the fret board pretty easily. It did travel from Florida to Washington State. 1st off, it sounds way out of tune when playing chords, even though the individual strings are in tune. I've never had a guitar with a wraparound bridge and have a few questions.

ALSO, because Gibson used studs with a variety of diameters installation might require replacement studs like those offered by TonePros (we like the locking studs).I just received a used Les Paul Special with wraparound bridge yesterday. This bridge does not address the problems on reissue LPs, only on the original guitars. 'The Stud Finder finally gets it right! The intonation is finally right now, the strings fall on the fingerboard where they should, the tone is awesome AND it looks right to the guitar. 'The improvement in intonation and playability is such a joy to discover that I can't recommend it more highly.' - Robben Ford 'This bridge is the result of years of frustration.' - Tom Bukovac 'In tune, great sustain, sounds amazing, It's everything you could want. Low profile so you can set your action as low as you want to. This means better tone, sustain and NO MORE TIPPING! Extended treble-side collar gives metal-on-metal contact. Offset string holes that allow strings to line up over pickup poles and fretboard correctly. Extended treble-side collar and compensated top for accurate intonation. The Stud Finder corrects all of the original stop bar problems. The best replacement Wraparound Tailpiece for 1950s and 1960s original Gibsons with offset bridge studs.

Gibson wraparound bridge